Iindaba kunye neCofa

USid Vicious wayengenakuze akholelwe ukuba iimpahla zakhe ezindala zazixabiseke kangakanani kwaye abazenzisi babeza kwenza umgudu omkhulu ukuze benze umgunyathi.
Kungekudala, umbhali-mbali wenkcubeko yaseLondon esekwe eLondon uPaul Gorman, umbhali we Ubomi kunye neXesha likaMalcolm McLaren: iBiography, kunye nefandesi yeRock Fashion uPaul Gorman wafumana isiqwenga sikaMarr. Ihempe eyenziwe nguMalcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries ileyibhile, malunga no-1977, ukuze ivavanywe.
Yenziwe nge-muslin kwaye ibonisa umzobo oqaphelekayo ngoko nangoko ligcisa uJamie Reid kwimikhono yeSex Pistols' “Anarchy in the UK” single.
Ukuba yinyani, iya kufumana ixabiso elihle kwifandesi. Kwifandesi yaseBonhams ngoMeyi, ihempe yeparashute kaMnu McLaren ka-1977 kunye noNksz Westwood ithengiswa nge-6,660 yeedola, kunye nejezi enqabileyo emnyama nebomvu ehonjiswe ngokhakhayi kunye crossbones kunye "Sex Pistols" Akukho Future "Lyrics" ithengisa $8,896.
Nangona kunjalo, uMnumzana Gorman akazange aqiniseke ukuba ihempe awayeyivavanya yile nto wayeyibanga umniniyo.
UMnu. Gorman wathi: “AmaSilamsi akasasebenzi kwezinye iindawo.” Kodwa kwenye indawo, ilaphu laliselitsha kakhulu. I-inki yayingengomgangatho we-1970s kwaye ayizange isasazeke kwilaphu. Ebuzwa malunga nokuvela, umthengisi wasirhoxisa isiqwenga kwindlu yefandesi wathi emva koko sathengiswa ngasese. ”Inye kuphela ihempe efana nale kwingqokelela yemyuziyam, utshilo uGorman, “kwaye ndicinga ukuba iyathandabuzeka nayo.”
Wamkelekile kwihlabathi elingaqhelekanga nelinengeniso lepunk yomgunyathi. Kule minyaka ingama-30 idlulileyo, izenza ngathi yenziwe ngesandla ngoyilo lwantlandlolo olubandakanya i-S-and-M kunye nemizobo emdaka, ukusikwa okutsha kunye nemitya, iipateni zentsalela yasemkhosini, i-tweeds kunye ne-latex-Sid Vicious kunye oontanga bakhe kwi-Anarchy Yintoni eyaduma ngexesha leengcamango - iye yaba lishishini lokukhula.
“Ndifumana ii-imeyile ezininzi nyanga nenyanga ndibuza ukuba kukho into eyinyani,” utshilo uSteven Philip, umgcini wefashoni, umqokeleli kunye nomcebisi.” Andizukubandakanyeka. Abantu bathenga igolide yezidenge. Kuhlala kukho i-500 fakes yeyokwenyani. "
Kangangesiqingatha senkulungwane, uMnumzana McLaren kunye noNksk. umboniso wepunk.
Kwiminyaka eli-10 eyalandelayo, le venkile yatshintshwa yaba ziiSex and Seditionaries, yazisa inkangeleko nesandi esineziphumo ezifikelela kude kwaye ngenxa yoko yayinokuqokelelwa.” Izinto enye zinqabile ngenxa yezinto ezininzi,” utsho uAlexander Fury, umbhali. ka-“Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.” “Amaxesha azo okuvelisa mafutshane, iimpahla zibiza imali eninzi, yaye abantu badla ngokuzithenga bade bazinxibe de ziqhekeke.”
Umlawuli wobugcisa kaDior kunye noFendi, uKim Jones, unomsebenzi omninzi kwaye ukholelwa ukuba “uWestwood noMcLaren benze iplani yempahla yanamhlanje. Babenemibono,” utshilo.
Iimyuziyam ezininzi nazo ziqokelela ezi zinto.UMichael Costiff, intlalontle, umyili wangaphakathi kunye nomgcini weWorld Archives kwiDover Street Market Stores, wayengumthengi wokuqala kaMnu McLaren kunye noNksz Westwood. ngoku zikwingqokelela yeMyuziyam yaseVictoria neAlbert, eyathenga ingqokelela kaMnu.
Ixabiso le-vintage McLaren kunye ne-Westwood libenza ukuba bajolise kwii-pirates zefashoni.Kwinqanaba elicacileyo, ii-replicas ziyafumaneka kwi-intanethi kwaye zithengiswa ngokuthe ngqo kwaye ngexabiso eliphantsi, ngaphandle kokukhohlisa - umzobo nje oqhelekileyo kwi-t-shirt elula.
"Esi siqwenga sivela kwimvelaphi yelizwe lobugcisa," utshilo uPaul Stolper, igalari yaseLondon esekwe eLondon eneqoqo elikhulu lemisebenzi yepunk yokuqala ngoku kwiMetropolitan Museum of Art. UGuevara okanye uMarilyn, uphela ngokusasazwa ngenkcubeko yethu. I-Sex Pistols ichaza ixesha, ngoko imifanekiso ihlala isenziwa kwakhona. "
Ke kukho ezona nkohliso zicace ngakumbi, njengesikipa esinexabiso eliphantsi leSiqhamo se-Loom esineMickey Mouse ebethelelwe emnqamlezweni, okanye iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane ezingama-190 “zesondo zentsusa” ezisuka kwiRobhothi yeVenkile eTokyo ezibonakala lula njengezokuqala, ngenxa yokuba ilaphu elitsha kunye nenyaniso yokuba esi simbo asizange senziwe ngokwenene ngeminyaka yoo-1970. Imarike yaseJapan izaliswe ngamafeki.
Kunyaka ophelileyo, uMnumzana Gorman wafumana isambatho esibizwa ngokuba yi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” kwi-eBay e-UK, athe wayithenga njengetyala le-£100 (malunga ne-139 yeedola).
Wathi: “Ngumzekelo obangel’ umdla wokwenziwa komgunyathi.” Ayizange ibekho. Kodwa ukongezwa kwesiqubulo esithi 'Ukutshabalalisa' kunye nokuhlaselwa kokuzama ukusebenzisa umlinganiswa wekhathuni othandwa kakhulu oboniswe ngendlela echasene nenkcubeko ekhokele indlela kaMcLaren neWestwood. Ndisebenzisa ubuchwephesha.
Umhlolokazi kaMnumzana McLaren, u-Young Kim, usebenze nzima kule minyaka idlulileyo ukugcina ilifa kunye nelifa lakhe. “Ndaya kwiMyuziyam yeMetropolitan ngo-2013 ukuya kuhlola ingqokelela yabo,” utshilo uNkskz. King.” Ndothukile kukufumanisa ukuba uninzi lwaba zazingeyonyani. Impahla yokuqala yayincinci. UMalcolm wabenza bamfanela yena noVivienne. Iimpahla ezininzi kwi-Met zazinkulu kwaye zilingana ne-pre-punks yanamhlanje. "
Kukho ezinye iimpawu. ”Banebhulukhwe ye-tweed kunye nesikhumba, ezinqabileyo neziyinyani, utshilo uNksk. King. Ukuthungwa kuphezu kwebhanti, kungekhona ngaphakathi, njengoko kuya kuba kwisambatho esenziwe kakuhle. Kwaye i-D-ring intsha kakhulu. "
Umsebenzi kumboniso we-Met ka-2013 othi “Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture” utsale ingqalelo emva kokuba uNksz. King noMnu Gorman bephawule esidlangalaleni ngezityholo zobuxoki kunye nokungangqinelani kwalo mboniso.
Kodwa kukho imibuzo malunga nomsebenzi owawungenwe kwimyuziyam kwiminyaka esibhozo ngaphambili.Imizekelo iquka isuti yobukhoboka eyayivele ngokugqamileyo kumboniso we-“Anglomania” ka-2006, eyayanyaniswa nomthengisi wezinto zakudala eziseLondon uSimon Easton, kunye nenkampani erentisayo yaseWestwood neMcLaren iPunk. Iqoqo lePistol, elibonelela ngeesitayile kunye nabenzi befilimu, kunye no-2003, uMnumzana Stone wase-Iraqi kunye neqabane lakhe leshishini, uGerald Bowey, baseka imyuziyam kwi-intanethi.Ngexesha elithile, imyuziyam iyeka ukudwelisa iisuti njengenxalenye yokuqokelela kwayo.
“Ngo-2015, iziqwenga ezibini zeMcLaren-Westwood kwingqokelela yethu zamiselwa ukuba zezomgunyathi,” utshilo u-Andrew Bolton, umlondolozi oyintloko kwiMetropolitan Costume Institute. Uphando lwethu kulo mmandla luyaqhuba.”
Umnumzana Gorman uthumele uMnumzana Bolton ii-imeyile ezininzi apho wathi eminye imisebenzi kolu ngcelele ineengxaki, kodwa uMnu Gorman wathi uMnu. UBolton unqabile ukunika naziphi na izimvo ezongezelelweyo kweli nqaku.
Umnumzana Easton, ongavumanga ukuthetha ngeli nqaku, uthe nge-imeyile uMnu Bowie wayemthethela, kodwa igama lakhe alicimeki kwintsomi yepunk yobuxoki. ithathwa ngabaninzi njengovimba othembekileyo woyilo lweMcLaren noWestwood.
Nangona kunjalo, umnumzana Bowie uthe ngaphandle kwemizamo yabo yokuqinisekisa ingqokelela, "indlela engaqhelekanga ezakhulelwa ngayo iimpahla, zaveliswa zaza zaphinda zenziwa zayithintela. Namhlanje, nkqu noludwe lwekhathalogu yefandesi, iirisithi yaye kwezinye iimeko eziphuma kwisiqinisekiso saseWestwood, ezi mpahla ziseyimpikiswano.”
Ngomhla we-9 kuSeptemba 2008, uMnumzana McLaren waxelelwa okokuqala ngobungakanani bobuqhophololo obumngqongile kunye noNksz.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
“Emva kweengxelo, amapolisa agqogqe amakhaya eCroydon nase-Eastbourne, apho afumana iilebhile ze-agitator,” yatsho i-imeyile.” Kodwa ngoobani aba matsha? Wamkelekile uMnu Grant Howard kunye noMnu Lee Parker.
UGrant Champkins-Howard, ngoku ongu-DJ ophantsi kwegama elinguGrant Dale, kunye no-Lee Parker, umdidiyeli wemibhobho yamanzi, baxoxwa kwiNkundla yaseKingston Crown ngoJuni 2010, watsho uMgwebi uSusan Matthews. “Bangamaxoki akudala”. Ipropathi yabo yagqogqwa ngo-2008 yiMetropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad yaza yahlutha iimpahla ezityholwa ngokuba zezomgunyathi zikaMcLaren kunye neWestwood kunye nezinto ezinxulumene noko, kunye neeprints eziyi-120 zomgunyathi zeBanksy.
Aba babini kamva bafunyanwa benetyala lokukhohlisa umsebenzi weBanksy.UMnu. UMcLaren, umdali kuphela weempahla zokuqala zeSex kunye ne-Seditionaries ezimisele ukunikela ubungqina, wacelwa ukuba ahlolisise izinto ezithathiweyo kwaye abonise ukuba iingubo zaziyinkohliso: ubungakanani obungalunganga bombhalo we-stencil, amalaphu angahambelaniyo, ukusetyenziswa kweYKK kuneziphu ezibhalwe ngoMbane. , ukudityaniswa kwemizobo engalunganga kunye ne tee endala emhlophe.
“Wayenomsindo,” utshilo uNkosazana King.” Wayeziva eqinile ngokukhusela nokukhusela umsebenzi wakhe. Yayixabisekile kuye.” Emva kokuqhawuka kwentsebenziswano phakathi kukaMnu McLaren kunye noNksk. Westwood ngo-1984, kwabakho imeko ephakamileyo ekudala ikho phakathi kwaba babini.
Umnumzana Howard noParker banikwa izigwebo ezixhonyiweyo kwityala leBanks, kodwa ityala lempahla yomgunyathi larhoxiswa xa uMnumzana McLaren wasweleka ngo-2010 ngenxa yokuba wayelingqina eliphambili lomtshutshisi ebaleni.
Nangona kunjalo, kufumaniseke ukuba usapho lukaNks. . UWestwood, owavula eyakhe impahla yangaphantsi kwishishini le-1994.
UMnu. Corré uthe: “Siphinde sayila isikipa sethambo lenkukhu kunye nesikipa se-'Venus'. .” Phambi kwezi zikopi zineenkcukacha kunye nexabiso eliphezulu, ukwenziwa kwakhona kwemisebenzi bekunqunyelwe kwizikrini zesilika ezicacileyo kwiiT-shirts ezithengiswayo zithengisa, isantya semveliso siyakhawuleza, kwaye ixabiso litshiphu kakhulu.
UMnu. Corré uthe uVivienne Westwood unike imvume yokuvelisa kwakhona.UMnu. UMcLaren wayenomsindo. Kwi-imeyile yomhla we-14 kuOktobha 2008 kwiqela eliquka intatheli uSteven Daly, uMnu McLaren wabhala: “Ngubani obavumeleyo ukuba benze oku? Ndaxelela uJoe ukuba ayeke ngoko nangoko aze ambhalele .Ndinomsindo.”
UMnu. Corré, osandul’ ukuba ngumalathisi weVivienne Foundation, “usebenzisa amalungelo okushicilela umsebenzi wakhe ngendlela ebonisa uvelwano ukuze aqokelele imali yokuxhasa izinto ezahlukahlukeneyo.” Uthe uzakuphonononga indlela “yokuphelisa” ubuqhophololo. UNksz King uyaqhubeka nokulwela ilifa likaMnu McLaren kwaye ukholelwa ukuba uyacinywa ngokuphindaphindiweyo kwimbali yakhe.
Ishishini lepunk pistol likaMnumzana Easton kunye noMnu. Bowey liyaqhubeka nokuthengisa uMs. Westwood kunye nomsebenzi kaMnu McLaren ngevenkile yakwa-Etsy iSeditionariesInTheUK, uninzi lwayo luphethe ileta yesiqinisekiso esivela kwiNkampani yeVivienne Westwood, esayinwe, eyilwe kwaye yagcinwa nguMurray Blewett. Ezi zibandakanya ihempe ezinemigca ezineekhola zikaPeter Pan kunye neziziba zesilika zikaKarl Marx, kunye neebhatyi zerabha eziphefumlelwe nguLevi.
I-intanethi ayikho ngqongqo njengezindlu ezininzi zefandesi, kwaye abanakuphawula ngeli nqaku, kodwa bathi bamele kuphela imisebenzi kunye ne-bulletproof provenance, okt iifoto zomnini onxibe iimpahla kwi-1970s.
“Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuba amaxhoba amaninzi enkohliso angamaxhoba avumayo,” utshilo uMnu Gorman.” Bafuna ngokwenene ukukholelwa ukuba bayinxalenye yebali lokuqala. Yiloo nto ifashoni emalunga nayo, akunjalo? Konke oku kuqhutywa ngumnqweno.”