Iindaba kunye Cinezela

Ke ufuna ukuthenga into entsha, kodwa awufuni ukufaka isandla kwizibalo ezoyikeka ozifumanayo xa iGoogling “impembelelo yefashoni yendalo.” Wenza ntoni
Ukuba unomdla kuzinzo, mhlawumbi ukhe weva inguqulelo yale ntetho: “Eyona ___ izinzileyo yile osele unayo.”Kuyinyani, kodwa akusoloko kusebenza, ngakumbi xa Impahla: Izitayile ziguquka, kunjalo nangemali, kwaye ufuna ukugcina kwaye ube nento entsha ecwebezelayo.Nangona kunjalo, ishishini lefashoni kufuneka lihlise isantya.Ngokwengxelo yamva nje yeBloomberg, Ifashoni yenza i-10 ekhulwini le-carbon dioxide ekhutshwayo yehlabathi kunye nesinye kwisihlanu sonyaka wemveliso yeplastiki yehlabathi.
Eyona nto ilandelayo ilungileyo malunga nokunxiba iimpahla osele unazo yile nto ishishini lefashoni liyibiza ngokuba “ukusetyenziswa ngokuqaphela.” Sidla ngokunxulumanisa ixabiso eliphezulu nomgangatho ophezulu, kodwa akunjalo.
Umthengi wefashoni u-Amanda Lee McCarty, ophethe ipodcast ye-Clotheshorse, usebenze njengomthengi iminyaka engaphezu kwe-15, ingakumbi kwishishini lefashoni elikhawulezayo-uthatha into ayibiza ngokuba "yifashoni ekhawulezayo" kwisihlalo esingaphambili. Emva kokudodobala koqoqosho ngo-2008, abathengi bafuna izaphulelo, kwaye ukuba abathengisi abaqhelekileyo abanikezeli, uForever21 wenze njalo, utshilo.
Isisombululo, utshilo uMcCarty, kukubeka amaxabiso ezinto eziphezulu kwaye emva koko ucwangcise ukuthengisa uninzi lwazo ngesaphulelo - okuthetha ukuba iindleko zokwenziwa ziyehla ziyehla. ”Kwangoko, ilaphu lanyamalala efestileni, utshilo. ibe kumgangatho ophantsi.”
UMcCarty uthe impembelelo iye yagqugqisa kweli shishini, yade yafikelela kwiimpawu zefashoni zobunewunewu. Yiyo loo nto namhlanje, “utyalo-mali” alukho lula njengokuthenga into ebiza kakhulu. iibrendi ezizinzileyo sizing.So, kufuneka sijonge ntoni?Akukho mpendulo ilungileyo, kodwa kukho iindlela ezisisigidi zokuba ngcono.
Khetha imicu yendalo-i-cotton, ilinen, isilika, uboya, i-hemp, njl njl.-eya kuhlala ixesha elide kwi-wardrobe yakho. Ngokukodwa, i-silika yafunyanwa njengelona laphu elihlala ixesha elide malunga nexesha lokusetyenziswa kwayo, lilandelwa nguboya. kuba la malaphu nawo anelona xesha lide phakathi kokuhlamba, nto leyo enceda ukuba ahlale ekwimeko entle.Amalaphu endalo ayakwazi ukubola kwaye aphinde asetyenziswe xa enxitywa. unyaka.)
U-Erin Beatty, umseki we-Rentrayage, uthe uyakuthanda ukufumana i-hemp kunye ne-jute kuba zizityalo ezivuselelekayo.
KuRebecca Burgess, umseki kunye nomlawuli weFibershed engenzi nzuzo kunye nombhali-mbhali we-Fibershed: iMovement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, imalunga nokufuna ukuxhasa uluntu lwamafama lwasekuhlaleni, ingakumbi ilaphu elenziwe e-US. “Ndikhangela i-100 lepesenti yoboya okanye i-100 lepesenti yomqhaphu kunye neemveliso ezinokulandeleka efama,” watsho.” Apho ndihlala khona eKhalifoniya, umqhaphu noboya zezona zintsinga esizivelisayo.Ndingathethelela nayiphi na ifayibha yendalo ethe ngqo kwi-bioregion. ”
Kukwakho neklasi yeentsinga ezingezizo iplastiki kodwa aziyiyo yonke into yendalo.I-Viscose yifiber ephuma kwintlaka yeplanga eye yanyangwa ngekhemikhali nge-sodium hydroxide kunye ne-carbon disulfide.Kukho iingxaki nge-viscose: Ngokutsho kokulungileyo kuwe. , inkqubo yokuvelisa i-viscose yinkcitho kwaye ingcolise indalo, kwaye ukuveliswa kwe-viscose yimbangela yokutshatyalaliswa kwamahlathi.Nangona kunjalo, ekugqibeleni i-biodegradable, into enhle.
Kungekudala, i-Eco Vero - i-fiber ye-viscose esebenzisa inkqubo yokuvelisa uxanduva lokusingqongileyo kunye neyona nto ingaphantsi kwempembelelo - ngoko ke amanye amanyathelo athatyathwa ukuphucula i-carbon footprint yale fayibha ye-semi-synthetic. (Emva koko sichaza i-semi-synthetic.
Jonga amalaphu eeco-laphu: Iinkcukacha zemiba yokuvelisa ifayibha - zimbalwa kwaye zimbalwa iindlela ezizinzileyo zokuvelisa iintsinga zendalo ezifana nomqhaphu kunye nesilika, njengee-biodegradable semi-synthetic fibers. , kodwa unokukhangela i-Ahimsa isilika egcina iintshulube.Ungajonga iziqinisekiso zeenkqubo zokuziphatha nezizinzileyo zemveliso.Xa uthandabuza, uCaric ucebisa ukukhangela iGOTS okanye iGlobal Organic Textile Standard certification enezona mfuno zingqongqo zokusingqongileyo.Njengoko sithetha , iindlela ezintsha zokusebenzisa amalaphu eplastiki ziyenziwa;umzekelo, "isikhumba se-vegan" ngokwembali senziwe kwiiplastiki ezicocekileyo ezenziwe ngepetroleum, kodwa izinto ezintsha ezifana nesikhumba se-mushroom kunye ne-ananapple zibonakalisa isithembiso esikhulu.
UGoogle ngumhlobo wakho: Ayizizo zonke iimpawu ezibonelela ngeenkcukacha malunga nendlela ilaphu eliveliswa ngayo, kodwa bonke abavelisi bempahla kufuneka bafake ileyibhile yangaphakathi ephula umxholo wefayibha kwisambatho ngepesenti.I-Kate Caric yaseLondon esekelwe amanqaku enkampani yempahla ezinzileyo. ngaphandle kokuba iibrendi ezininzi - ngakumbi iibrendi zefashoni ezikhawulezayo - zidibanisa iileyibhile zabo ngabom.Iiplastiki zihamba ngamagama amaninzi, ngoko ke kungcono uku-google amagama ongawaziyo.
Ukuba sitshintsha iingqondo zethu kwaye sibone ukuthenga ibhulukhwe yejean njengokuzinikela iminyaka emininzi okanye utyalo-mali olunexabiso, kunokuba sicinge, kunokwenzeka ukuba sigcine into esiyithengayo kwaye sinxibe izinto zethu.Emva kokuvavanya imilinganiselo yokuthenga. , uCaric uthi, ubeka kuqala iimpahla ezimenza onwabe — kuquka nefashoni.” Ukuba ngokwenene ukule meko kwaye uza kuyinxiba kwiminyaka emibini ukususela ngoku, kulungile,” utsho.” Abantu bafumanisa lukhulu. yokuzonwabisa kwimpahla.Yinto esiyenza yonke imihla kwaye kufanele ukuba siyive kamnandi.”
UBeatty uyavuma ukuba iimpahla ozinxiba kube kanye okanye kabini ziyingxaki: “Ngokwenene iphathelele, ngawaphi loo maqhekeza aya kuyichaza inkangeleko yakho ngokuphindaphindiweyo?”Inxalenye yaloo nto icinga ngendlela yokunyamekela isiqwenga sempahla ngaphambi kokuba uyithenge;umzekelo, ingaba icocekile eyomileyo kuphela? Ukuba akukho zicoci ezomileyo eco-friendly kwindawo yakho, ayinakuba sengqiqweni ukuthenga le mveliso.
KuMcCarty, endaweni yokuthenga ngokungxama, uthathe ixesha lokucinga ukuba isiqwenga singangena njani kwaye phi kwiwodrophu yakhe. ”
Ekupheleni kukaBill McKibben's "Earth," enye yeencwadi ezinethemba ngakumbi endizifundileyo malunga nengxaki yemozulu, uqukumbela ngelithi, ngokusisiseko, ezayo yethu Ikamva libuyela kwimodeli yezoqoqosho ekwindawo ethile, encinci.Burgess uyavuma: ukuhlala kwindawo yeyona nto iphambili ekuthengeni izinto ezizinzileyo.” Ndifuna ukuxhasa uluntu lwam olulimayo nolufuyayo kuba ndifuna ukubabona behlisa ukuxhomekeka kwabo kuqoqosho lwamazwe angaphandle,” utshilo. indawo endihlala kuyo ngokhetho lwam lokuthenga. "
U-Abrima Erwiah - unjingalwazi, ingcaphephe yefashoni ezinzileyo kunye nomseki weStudio 189 - uthatha indlela efanayo. Ngelixa ethenga kwiimveliso ezinkulu ezizinzileyo ezifana no-Eileen Fisher, uMzalwana uVellies kunye noMara Hoffman, uhlala ejonge amashishini amancinci kumantla eNew York. ”Ndiyayithanda into yokuba ungaya phaya ubone ukuba benza ntoni,” watsho.
Umsebenzi awenzayo ngoku uyancedakala kwixesha lakhe lokuvolontiya eGhana nokuhlala nezalamane, nto leyo eye yamnceda wacingisisa nzulu ngendlela athenga ngayo. Unxulumano lwakhe oluqinileyo neengcali zeempahla luye lwamnceda waqonda ukuba yonke into ukusuka efama ukuya kwisinxibo inxibelelana njani.” njengeGhana enezinto ezininzi ezisetyenzisiweyo, uyayiqonda into eyenzekayo xa ungasazidingi izinto zakho.”
Xa i-brand izama ukukhangela eyona mvelaphi yesinxibo sayo kwaye icace malunga nezenzo zayo, ibonisa amaxabiso angundoqo aqinileyo.Ukuba uthengela umntu, u-Erwiah uthi kungcono ukubuza imibuzo malunga nemigaqo yokuziphatha kunye nezenzo ezizinzileyo.Le yenye zezona ndlela zingcono zokuzivavandla ukuba ingaba impahla yabo ilufanele na utyalo-mali. Nokuba uphawu alunazo zonke iimpendulo, ukubuzwa kunokulityhala litshintshe loo nto-ukuba lishishini elincinci, amathuba okuba uthetha naye. umntu onempembelelo ethile kwimisebenzi yeshishini.Kuphawu olukhulu, ukuba abasebenzi babuzwa rhoqo malunga nozinzo, ngokuhamba kwexesha, banokuqonda ukuba oku kubeka phambili umthengi kwaye benze utshintsho.Enyanisweni, ukuthengwa okuninzi ngoku kwenzeka kwi-Intanethi.Yintoni UCaric wayekhangela ukuba ngaba i-brand yayindwendwela iifektri zayo kwaye ingaba ibandakanya ulwazi kwiwebhusayithi yabo malunga nendlela abahlawula ngayo abasebenzi babo.Akukhe kube buhlungu ukuthumela i-imeyile ukuba unemibuzo emininzi.
Ukurisayikilisha lelinye lawona magama aqhelekileyo asetyenziswa ukucoca ifashoni ekhawulezayo.Ingakumbi ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo inokuba yingxaki.Kodwa ngokuka-Erwiah, yonke into imalunga noyilo olunenjongo.Ukhankanya i-cradle to cradle philosophy.Kuyinto entle ukujika iibhotile zeplastiki zibe yimpahla yokuzivocavoca umzimba. , kodwa zijika zibe yintoni emva koko?Mhlawumbi kufuneka ihlale injalo kwaye ihlale isetyenziswa ixesha elide kangangoko;“ngamanye amaxesha kungcono ungayitshintshi,” utshilo u-Erwiah.” Ukuba yibhulukhwe yokubila, mhlawumbi imalunga nokuphinda uyisebenzise kwaye uyinike ubomi besibini, kunokutyala imali eninzi ekudaleni enye into.Akukho sisombululo silingana ngokupheleleyo. ”
Xa uBeatty wagqiba ekubeni aqalise iRentrayage, wagxininisa ekuhlaziyeni izinto awayesele enazo, esebenzisa impahla yakudala, amalaphu asele efile, nezinye izinto ezazisele zisasazwa—wayesoloko ekhangela amatye anqabileyo, njengezo T-shirts ziphela. “Enye yezona zinto zimbi kokusingqongileyo zezi t-shirts zinxiba-nye ezenzelwe olu gqatso lomdyarho okanye enye into,” utshilo uBeatty.” Ngesiqhelo, unokufumana imibala emihle ngokwenene.Sibasikile kwaye bakhangeleka bebahle. "Uninzi lwezi t-shirts ziyimixube yomqhaphu-polyester, kodwa ekubeni sele zikhona, kufuneka zijikelezwe njengempahla ixesha elide, uBeatty uzama ukuzisebenzisa kwakhona kuba azigugi ngokukhawuleza. Ukuba awusafuni isiqwenga wempahla esetyenzisiweyo emzimbeni wakho, ungawuphucula ube likhaya lakho.” Ndibona abantu beguqula iziketi zibe yinapkeni,” watsho uBeatty.
Kwezinye iimeko, awusoloko ufumana i-brand ethics okanye nomxholo wefiber xa uthenga izinto ezisetyenzisiweyo.Nangona kunjalo, ukunika inkangeleko entsha kwisambatho esele sidada emhlabeni kwaye siphelela kwiindawo zokulahla inkunkuma ihlala iyindlela ezinzileyo.
Nakwiivenkile ezithengisa izinto ezisele zisetyenzisiwe, kukho iindlela zokuvavanya umgangatho kunye nesakhono esihlala sihleli, utshilo uCaric.Kwi-denim, uCaric uthetha izinto ezimbini ekufuneka zijongwe: Inqunyulwe kwi-selvedge, kwaye i-seams yangaphakathi nangaphandle idityaniswe kabini.Ezi zizo zonke iindlela zokuqinisa iingubo ukuze zihlale ixesha elide ngaphambi kokuba zifune ukulungiswa.
Ukuthenga isiqwenga sempahla kubandakanya ukuthatha uxanduva lomjikelo wobomi bento – nto leyo ethetha ukuba xa sithe sayigqiba yonke le nto kwaye siyithengile, kufuneka siyikhathalele kakuhle. Ingakumbi ngamalaphu enziweyo, inkqubo yokuhlamba iimpahla I-complicated.Kuyinto efanelekileyo yokutyalomali kwisikhwama sokucoca ukumisa ukukhutshwa kwe-microplastics kwisistim samanzi, kwaye ukuba uzimisele ukuchitha imali encinci yokufaka, ungathenga isihluzi kumatshini wakho wokuhlamba. , kuphephe ukusebenzisa isixhobo sokomisa ngokupheleleyo.” Xa uthandabuza, yihlambe uze womise umoya.Yeyona nto ilungileyo onokuyenza,” utshilo uBeatty.
UMcCarty ukwacebisa ukuba ufunde ileyibhile yokhathalelo ngaphakathi kwengubo.Emva kokuba uqhelene neesimboli kunye nezixhobo, uya kuqalisa ukwazi ukuba yintoni ekufuneka icocwe yomile kwaye ifanelekele ukuhlamba izandla/imeko ezomileyo zomoya.UMcCarty ukwacebisa ukuthenga kaHeloise “Handy”. Incwadi ethi Household Hints”, ahlala eyibona kwiivenkile ezithengisa ngemali engaphantsi kwe-5 yeedola, nokufunda ubuchule bokunkcunkca obusisiseko, njengokutshintsha amaqhosha kunye nemingxuma yokuchwetheza. Kwaye, yazi xa uphumile kubunzulu bakho;maxa wambi, kufanelekile utyalo-mali ekuthungeni.Emva kokutshintsha idyasi yeediliya zakudala, uMcCarty ukholelwa ukuba uya kuyinxiba ubuncinane kwiminyaka engama-20 ezayo.
Enye inketho yokuhlaziya iimpahla ezidaywe okanye ezigugileyo: iidayi.” Ungaze uwajongele phantsi amandla edayi emnyama,” utshilo uBeatty.” Leyo yenye imfihlelo.Senza njalo maxa wambi.Isebenza ngokumangalisayo. ”
Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nengxelo yabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Le imeyile iya kusetyenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke iisayithi zaseNew York.Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nomgaqo-nkqubo wabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Njengenxalenye yeakhawunti yakho, uya kufumana uhlaziyo ngamaxesha athile kunye nezibonelelo ezivela eNew York kwaye ungaphuma nangaliphi na ixesha.
Le imeyile iya kusetyenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke iisayithi zaseNew York.Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nomgaqo-nkqubo wabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Njengenxalenye yeakhawunti yakho, uya kufumana uhlaziyo ngamaxesha athile kunye nezibonelelo ezivela eNew York kwaye ungaphuma nangaliphi na ixesha.