Ngeli xesha lonyaka, umzi-mveliso wefashoni waseTurkey ujongene nemingeni emininzi, ukusukela kwintlekele ye-Covid-19 kunye nongquzulwano lwe-geopolitical kumazwe angabamelwane, ukuya kuphazamiso oluqhubekayo lokubonelela, imozulu ebandayo engaqhelekanga yokumisa imveliso kunye nengxaki yezoqoqosho yelizwe, njengoko kubonwa kwimali yaseTurkey. Ingxaki ngokwe-Financial Times yase-UK.IThe Times inike ingxelo yokuba ukunyuka kwamaxabiso kufikelele kwiminyaka engama-20 ephezulu kuma-54% ngoMatshi walo nyaka.
Ngaphandle kwale miqobo, isekiwe kwaye isavela italente yoyilo lwaseTurkey ibonise ukuzinza kunye nethemba kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseIstanbul kweli xesha lonyaka, ngokukhawuleza bamkela umxube wemisitho kunye nokubonisa izicwangciso zokwandisa kunye nobungqina bobukho babo behlabathi kweli xesha lonyaka.
Imisebenzi ebonakalayo kwiindawo zembali ezifana nebhotwe lase-Ottoman kunye necawa yaseCrimea eneminyaka eyi-160 ubudala ibuyela kwishedyuli, idibene neminikelo yedijithali edibeneyo, kunye nemiboniso esanda kuvulwa, iingxoxo zephaneli kunye ne-pop-ups kwi-Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Abaququzeleli beminyhadala - i-Istanbul Garment Exporters Association okanye i-İHKİB, i-Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) kunye ne-Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - ibambisene ne-Istanbul Soho House ukubonelela abantu basekuhlaleni ngamava okuvavanya ngokuphila kunye nokutyelela ngamalungu oshishino losasazo lwamazwe ngamazwe. abaphulaphuli banokuqhagamshela kwi-intanethi ngeZiko leMisitho yeDijithali yeFWI.
E-Istanbul, kwakukho ingqiqo yamandla amatsha ekusebenzeni kunye nokuhlolwa kwemisebenzi yomzimba njengoko abathathi-nxaxheba bajoyina uluntu lwabo ngomntu kwakhona kwiimeko zemozulu.
“[Siyakukhumbula] ukuba kunye,” utshilo umyili weempahla zamadoda uNiyazi Erdoğan.” Amandla aphezulu kwaye wonke umntu ufuna ukubakho kulo mboniso.
Apha ngezantsi, i-BoF idibana nabayili abasakhulayo abali-10 nabasekiweyo kwiminyhadala yabo yeVeki yeFashoni kunye neminyhadala ukufumanisa ukuba amaphulo abo kunye nezicwangciso zabo zophawu ziye zavela njani e-Istanbul ngeli xesha lonyaka.
U-Şansım Adalı wafunda eBrussels ngaphambi kokuba aseke uSudi Etuz. Umyili, oyintshatsheli kwindlela yedijithali-yokuqala, ugxile kakhulu kwishishini lakhe ledijithali namhlanje kwaye wehlisa ishishini lakhe lamalaphu.Usebenzisa iimodeli zokwenyani zokwenyani, amagcisa edijithali kunye neenjineli zobukrelekrele bokwenziwa, ngokunjalo. njengengqokelela ye-capsule ye-NFT kunye nempahla yomzimba elinganiselweyo.
U-Şansım Adalı ubamba umboniso wakhe kwiCawe yeSikhumbuzo saseCrimea kufutshane neGalata e-Istanbul, apho uyilo lwakhe lwedijithali luyimodeli yedijithali kwaye iboniswe kwisikrini esiziimitha ezi-8 ubude. ayiziva ilungile” ukuba nabantu abaninzi kumboniso wefashoni kunye. Endaweni yoko, wasebenzisa imifuziselo yakhe yedijithali kwiindawo ezincinci zokubonisa.
“Ngamava ahluke kakhulu, ukuba nomboniso wedijithali kwindawo yokwakha endala,” uxelele i-BoF.” Ndiyawuthanda umahluko.Wonke umntu uyazi ngale nkonzo, kodwa akungeni mntu. Isizukulwana esitsha asizazi nokuba zikhona ezi ndawo.Ke, ndifuna ukubona isizukulwana esincinci ngaphakathi kwaye ndikhumbule ukuba sinolu lwakhiwo luhle. ”
Umboniso wedijithali uhamba kunye nokusebenza kwe-opera ephilayo, kwaye umculi unxiba enye yeempahla ezimbalwa zomzimba ezenziwa ngu-Adal namhlanje - kodwa ubukhulu becala, uSudi Etuz unenjongo yokugcina ingqalelo yedijithali.
“Izicwangciso zam zekamva kukugcina icala lelaphu lohlobo lwam lincinci kuba andiqondi ukuba ilizwe liyalifuna olunye uhlobo lokuvelisa ngobuninzi.Ndigxila kwiiprojekthi zedijithali.Ndineqela leenjineli zekhompyuter, amagcisa edijithali kunye neqela lamagcisa wempahla.Iqela lam loyilo nguGen Z, kwaye ndizama ukubaqonda, babukele, bamamele. ”
UGökay Gündoğdu wafudukela eNew York ukuya kufunda ulawulo lophawu ngaphambi kokujoyina iDomus Academy eMilan ngo-2007. UGündoğdu wasebenza e-Italiya ngaphambi kokuba aqalise ileyibhile yakhe yesinxibo se-TAGG kwi-2014 - i-Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu. yaqaliswa ngexesha lobhubhane.
I-TAGG ibonisa ingqokelela yeli xesha lonyaka ngendlela yomboniso wemyuziyam owandisiweyo: "Sisebenzisa iikhowudi ze-QR kunye nenyani eyongeziweyo ukubukela iimuvi ezibukhoma ziphuma eludongeni - iinguqulelo zevidiyo zemifanekiso emileyo, njengomboniso wefashoni," uGündoğdu uxelele i-BoF.
“Andingomntu wedijithali kwaphela,” utshilo, kodwa ngexesha lo bhubhani, yonke into esiyenzayo yedijithali.Senza ukuba iwebhusayithi yethu ifikeleleke ngakumbi kwaye kube lula ukuyiqonda.Sikwi [iqonga lolawulo oluthe kratya] uJoor ubonise ingqokelela ngo-2019 kwaye wafumana abathengi abatsha nabatsha e-US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait.”
Ngaphandle kwempumelelo yakhe, ukufika kwe-TAGG kwiiakhawunti zamazwe ngamazwe kweli xesha lonyaka kubonakalise umngeni.Andizisebenzisi nyani izinto zenkcubeko - ubuhle bam buyinto encinci kakhulu, "watsho. Kodwa ukutsala umdla kubaphulaphuli bamazwe ngamazwe, uGündodu waphefumlela kwiibhotwe zaseTurkey, elinganisa uyilo kunye neendawo zangaphakathi ezinemibala efanayo, ukuthungwa kunye ne-silhouettes.
Ingxaki yezoqoqosho ikwachaphazele ingqokelela yakhe kule sizini: “I-lira yaseTurkey iphulukana nomfutho, ke yonke into ibiza kakhulu.Ukungenisa amalaphu kumazwe angaphandle kuxakekile.Urhulumente uthi akufuneki utyhale ukhuphiswano phakathi kwabavelisi bamalaphu bangaphandle kunye norhwebo lwangaphakathi.Kufuneka uhlawule irhafu eyongezelelweyo xa ungenisa elizweni.”Ngenxa yoko, abaqulunqi baxuba amalaphu asekhaya kunye nalawo asuka eItali naseFransi.
UMlawuli woBuchule u-Yakup Bicer uphehlelele ibhrendi yakhe i-Y Plus, ibrendi ye-unisex, ngo-2019 emva kweminyaka engama-30 kwishishini loyilo laseTurkey.
Ingqokelela yedijithali ye-Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 collection iphefumlelwe "ngamaqhawe ekhibhodi angaziwa kunye nabakhuseli babo be-crypto-anarchist ideology" kwaye idlulisela umyalezo wokukhusela inkululeko yezopolitiko kumaqonga eendaba ezentlalo.
"Ndifuna ukuqhubeka [ndibonisa] okwethutyana," uxelele i-BoF. "Njengoko senzile ngaphambili, ukuhlanganisa abathengi ngexesha leveki yefashoni kudla ixesha elininzi kwaye kungumthwalo wemali.Ngoku sinokufikelela kuzo zonke iindawo zehlabathi ngaxeshanye ngokucofa iqhosha ngentetho yedijithali. ”
Ngaphaya kwetekhnoloji, i-Bicer ixhasa imveliso yasekhaya ukoyisa ukuphazamiseka kokubonelela - kwaye ngokwenza oko, inethemba lokuhambisa iindlela ezizinzileyo. ”Sijongene nezithintelo zokuhamba kwaye ngoku sisemfazweni [kwingingqi yehlabathi], ngoko umba owudalayo uchaphazela urhwebo lwethu lonke.[...] Ngokusebenza nemveliso yasekhaya, siqinisekisa ukuba [imisebenzi] yethu [ngaphezulu ] izinzileyo, kwaye [thina] sinciphise indawo yethu yekhabhoni. "
U-Ece kunye no-Ayse Ege basungula i-brand yabo ye-Dice Kayek ngo-1992. Ngaphambili yaveliswa eParis, i-brand yajoyina i-Fédération Française de la Couture ngo-1994 kwaye yanikezelwa nge-Jameel Prize III, ibhaso lamazwe ngamazwe lobugcisa bexesha kunye noyilo oluphefumlelwe yizithethe zamaSilamsi, I-2013.I-brand isandula ukuhambisa istudiyo sayo e-Istanbul kwaye inabathengisi abangama-90 kwihlabathi liphela.
Oodade bakaDice Kayek u-Ece no-Ayse Ege baye babonisa ingqokelela yabo kwividiyo yefashoni kweli xesha - ifomathi yedijithali abaqhelene nayo ngoku, besenza iifilimu zefashoni ukususela ngo-2013.Vula kwaye ubuyele kuyo.Inexabiso elingaphezulu.Ku-10 okanye Iminyaka eyi-12, ungayibukela kwakhona. Sikhetha iindidi zayo, ”u-Ece uxelele i-BoF.
Namhlanje, i-Dice Kayek ithengisa kumazwe aseYurophu, e-US, kuMbindi Mpuma nase-China. Ngevenkile yabo e-Paris, baye bahlula amava abathengi evenkileni ngokusebenzisa izithethe zaseTurkey njengeqhinga lokuthengisa elinamava.”Awunakukhuphisana nezi zinto. iimveliso ezinkulu naphi na, kwaye akukho ncedo ekwenzeni oko, ”utshilo uAyse, othe uphawu luceba ukuvula enye ivenkile eLondon kulo nyaka.
Oodade ngaphambili babeqhuba ishishini labo besuka eParis phambi kokuba bafudukele e-Istanbul, apho istudiyo sabo sincanyathiselwe kwigumbi lokubonisa likaBeaumonti. I-Dice Kayek yafaka ishishini labo ngaphakathi ngokupheleleyo kwaye yabona imveliso iba nengeniso engakumbi, “into esasingenakuyenza xa sasivelisa komnye umzi-mveliso. ”Ekuziseni imveliso endlwini, oodade nabo babenethemba lokuba umsebenzi wobugcisa waseTurkey uyaxhaswa kwaye ugcinwe kwingqokelela yawo.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan ngumyili weVeki yeFashoni yase-Istanbul ka-2009 kunye noSekela-Mongameli we-Turkish Fashion Designers Association, kunye nomhlohli kwi-Istanbul Fashion Academy. IMbasa yeMyuziyam kunyaka omnye.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan ubonise ingqokelela yakhe yempahla yamadoda ngokwedijithali kweli xesha lonyaka: “Sonke senza ngokwedijithali ngoku - sibonisa kwi-Metaverse okanye i-NFTs.Sithengisa ingqokelela ngedijithali nangokwasemzimbeni, sisiya kumacala omabini.Sifuna ukulungiselela ikamva labo bobabini,” uxelele iBoF.
Nangona kunjalo, kwisizini ezayo, uthe, "Ndicinga ukuba kufuneka sibe nomboniso womzimba.Ifashoni imalunga noluntu kunye neemvakalelo, kwaye abantu bayathanda ukuba kunye.Kubantu abanobuchule, siyayidinga le nto. ”
Ngexesha lo bhubhani, uphawu lwenze ivenkile ekwi-intanethi kwaye lwatshintsha ingqokelela zabo ukuba zibe “zithengisa ngcono” kwi-Intanethi, kuthathelwa ingqalelo utshintsho kwimfuno yabathengi ngexesha lobhubhani. Ukwaphawule utshintsho kwesi siseko sabathengi: “Ndibona isinxibo sam samadoda kuthengiswa nakwabafazi, ngoko akukho mida.”
Njengomhlohli we-IMA, u-Erdogan uhlala efunda kwisizukulwana esilandelayo. "Kwisizukulwana esifana noAlpha, ukuba usefashonini, kufuneka ubaqonde.Umbono wam kukuqonda iimfuno zabo, ukuba nobuchule malunga nokuzinza, idijithali, umbala, ukusika kunye nokumila - kufuneka sisebenzisane nabo. "
Umfundi ophumelele i-Istituto Marangoni, u-Nihan Peker wasebenzela iinkampani ezifana noFrankie Morello, uColmar kunye noFurla ngaphambi kokuba aqalise ileyibhile yakhe ye-namesake kwi-2012, ukuyila ukuqokelela okukulungele ukunxiba, ukutshata kunye ne-couture.Ubonise eLondon, eParis naseMilan Fashion Weeks.
Ukubhiyozela isikhumbuzo seminyaka eli-10 kweli xesha lonyaka, u-Nihan Peker ubambe umboniso wefashoni e-Çırağan Palace, ibhotwe langaphambili lase-Ottoman laguqulwa lisuka kwihotele ejonge eBosphorus.” UPeker uxelele i-BoF. ” Kwiminyaka elishumi kamva, ndiziva ngathi ndingabhabha ngokukhululekileyo kwaye ndigqithe imida yam.
“Kundithathe ixesha ukuzibonakalisa kwilizwe lam,” wongeze watsho uPeker, obehleli phambili kweli xesha lonyaka nabantu abadumileyo baseTurkey abanxibe iimpahla eziqokelelweyo. impembelelo kuMbindi Mpuma.
“Bonke abayili baseTurkey kufuneka bacinge ngemiceli mngeni yommandla wethu amaxesha ngamaxesha.Ngeliphandle, njengelizwe, kufuneka sijongane nemiba emikhulu yezentlalo nezopolitiko, ngoko ke sonke siphulukana nomfutho.Ingqwalasela yam ngoku kukuqokelelwa kwam okukulungeleyo ukunxiba kunye neengqokelela ze-haute couture zenza uhlobo olutsha lokunxiba, ubuhle obunokwenziwa. "
Emva kokuphumelela kwi-Istanbul Fashion Institute ngo-2014, u-Akyuz wafundela isidanga se-masters kwi-Menswear Design kwi-Marangoni Academy e-Milan.Wasebenzela u-Ermenegildo Zegna kunye ne-Costume National ngaphambi kokuba abuyele eTurkey ngo-2016 kwaye wasungula ileyibhile yakhe yempahla yamadoda ngo-2018.
Kumboniso wesithandathu wexesha lonyaka, u-Selen Akyuz wenza ifilim eyaboniswa eSoho House e-Istanbul nakwi-intanethi: “Yimuvi, ngoko ayingomboniso wefashoni ngenene, kodwa ndicinga ukuba isasebenza.Kwakhona ngokweemvakalelo.”
Njengeshishini elincinci lesiko, i-Akyuz iyakha kancinci isiseko sabathengi bamazwe aphesheya, esinabathengi ngoku base-US, Romania nase-Albania. , kwaye uthathe inyathelo elithile,” watsho.”Sivelisa yonke into kwitafile yam yokutyela.Akukho mveliso ngobuninzi.Phantse yonke into ndiyenza ngesandla” – kuquka ukwenza izikipa, iminqwazi, izincedisi kunye neengxowa “zokuzibalisa, ezishiyekileyo” ukukhuthaza ukuziqhelanisa noyilo oluqhubekayo.
Le ndlela yokwehliswa kwayo idlulela kumaqabane akhe emveliso.”Endaweni yokusebenza nabavelisi abakhulu, bendikhangela abathungi abancinci bendawo ukuxhasa uphawu lwam, kodwa bekunzima ukufumana abagqatswa abafanelekileyo.Amagcisa asebenzisa ubuchule bemveli kunzima ukufumana-ukuthathwa kwabasebenzi besizukulwana esilandelayo kulinganiselwe.
UGökhan Yavaş uphumelele kwi-DEU Fine Arts Textile kunye noYilo lweFashoni ngo-2012 kwaye wafunda e-IMA ngaphambi kokuba aphehlelele eyakhe ingubo yesitalato yamadoda ngo-2017.
Kweli xesha lonyaka, uGökhan Yavaş ubonisa ividiyo emfutshane kunye nomboniso wefashoni – ngowokuqala kwiminyaka emithathu. “Siyikhumbula kakhulu – lixesha lokuthetha nabantu kwakhona.Sifuna ukuqhubeka sisenza imiboniso yefashoni yomzimba kuba kwi-Instagram, kuya kuba nzima ukunxibelelana.Imalunga nokuhlangana kunye nokuva kubantu ubuso ngobuso, ”utshilo umyili.
Uphawu luhlaziya imveliso yalo.”Siyekile ukusebenzisa ufele lokwenyani kunye nofele lokwenyani,” ucacisile, ecacisa ukuba inkangeleko ezintathu zokuqala zengqokelela zadityaniswa zisuka kwizikhafu ezenziwe kwiingqokelela zangaphambili. I-DHL ukuyila i-raincoat ukuze ithengiselwe imibutho yesisa yokusingqongileyo.
Ugxininiso lozinzo lubonakalise umngeni kwiibhrendi, kunye nomqobo wokuqala kukufumana amalaphu e-millet amaninzi kubaboneleli.Umceli mngeni wesibini abajongene nawo kuvula ivenkile eTurkey ukuthengisa iimpahla zamadoda, ngelixa abathengi bendawo bejolise kwi-Turkish womenswear designs division. kunye neTshayina.
I-brand yobugcisa obunxitywayo i-Bashaques yasekwa kwi-2014 ngu-Başak Cankeş.I-brand ithengisa iimpahla zokuqubha kunye ne-kimonos ezinemixholo yobugcisa bayo.
Ngokwesiqhelo, ndenza intsebenziswano yobugcisa kunye neziqwenga zobugcisa ezinxitywayo,” umlawuli woyilo u-Başak Cankeş uxelele i-BoF kamsinya nje emva kokubonisa ingqokelela yakhe yamva nje kumboniso wemizuzu engama-45 eSoho House e-Istanbul.
Lo mboniso ubalisa ibali lokuhamba kwakhe ePeru naseColombia ukuze asebenze kunye namagcisa abo, amkele iipateni ze-Anatolian kunye neempawu, kwaye "ababuze ukuba baziva njani nge-Anatolian [iiprinta]". imisebenzi yobugcisa eqhelekileyo phakathi kwe-Asian Turkish Anatolia kunye namazwe akuMzantsi Melika.
“Malunga nama-60 ekhulwini ale ngqokelela sisiqwenga nje esinye, esilukwe ngesandla ngabafazi basePeru naseAnatolia,” utsho.
UCankeş uthengisela abaqokeleli bemizobo eTurkey kwaye ufuna abanye abathengi benze ingqokelela yemyuziyam emsebenzini wakhe, ecacisa ukuba “akanamdla wokuba luphawu lwehlabathi lonke kuba kunzima ukuba luphawu lwehlabathi noluzinzileyo.Andifuni nokwenza nayiphi na ingqokelela yamaqhekeza ali-10 ngaphandle kweesuti zokuqubha okanye iikimono.Yingqokelela yonke yobugcisa obunokuguqulwa, esiya kuthi siyibeke kwii-NFTs ngokunjalo.Ndizibona njengegcisa, hayi umyili wefashoni.”
I-Karma Collective imele italente esakhulayo ye-Istanbul Moda Academy, eyasekwa kwi-2007, inikezela ngeedigri kuYilo lweFashoni, iTekhnoloji kunye noPhuhliso lweMveliso, uLawulo lweFashoni, kunye noNxibelelwano lweFashoni kunye neMedia.
"Eyona ngxaki ndinayo yimeko yemozulu, kuba bekunekhephu kwezi veki zimbini zidlulileyo, ngoko ke sineengxaki ezininzi ngokubonelela kunye namalaphu okukhangela," uHakalmaz uxelele i-BoF.Yena ingqokelela nje ezimbini. iiveki zeleyibhile yakhe i-Alter Ego, eboniswe njengenxalenye yeqela leKarma, kwaye yenzelwe indlu yefashoni uNocturne.
UHakalmaz akasasebenzisi nezisombululo zobuchwepheshe ukuxhasa inkqubo yakhe yokuvelisa, esithi: “Andikuthandi ukusebenzisa itekhnoloji kwaye ndihlale kude kuyo kangangoko ndinako kuba ndikhetha ukwenza umsebenzi wezandla ukuze ndinxibelelane nexesha elidlulileyo.”
Ixesha lokuposa: May-11-2022
